Wednesday, May 23, 2007

2002 Heymann-Loewenstein Riesling "Uhlen R", Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Bought this on closeout from Eric at Chambers. Very cool shit. Grand Cru, Grosses Gewachs trocken Riesling that has no problem balancing its tremendous must weight with power and focus on the palate. Already a roiling, dieselly mass of violet and apple fruit, it seems likely to careen into the future on a relatively safe rail. The violet is what gets me. It's such a rhoney, garriguey kind of aroma, I guess I never expect it in whites. Even chenin produces something more akin to the nondescriptor "white flowers."

It has that dried honey, overweight German plutocrat kind of structure, but almost like what a normal lieblich Spatlese could taste like with 15 years to dry it out. But it lacks that museum dust and slight astringence that I've got from the fatless Spatleses with age. Still vibrant and complete. Normally a wine that's meant to retail for $50+, I bought 3cs cheap and sell it for half that.

As a side note, the website of the producer is cleanly designed, multilingual and a great resource for slate porn and other wells of interest for Riesling-philes. Highly recommended. Here, I discovered that the vineyard sits on martian-looking meteorite stone at 115% inclination. Badass.

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